Margaret Marr opened a clothing boutique called Whenua off Auckland's Karangahape Road in 1995. The garments featured in the Auckland Museum Applied Arts collection reflect Margaret's Maori background and philosophy.

Marr's creations won her awards and established her as one of the pioneers of modern Polynesian fashion. In 1995 she won a supreme award in the men's section of the Pasifika Fashion show for the three-piece screenprinted outfit featured here. Purchased at the time by the Museum, it is an example of a traditional garment with a modern influence.

She began by designing at home to order. To test the interest in her garments she sold direct to the public at the Otara and Avondale markets in Auckland. For inspiration she delved into her Te Arawa whakapapa (geneology).

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Marr: "I wanted prints that at first glance were identifiably Maori. As a Maori, I had to research all the do's and don'ts when it comes to imagery. I wanted to shift awareness from the thoughts that Polynesian clothes are for leisurewear only. This is not just about fashion, it's about identity. And that's evergreen."

Whenua displayed traditional Maori and Pacific garments with a contemporary twist to create a unique line of clothing. Margaret used all natural materials in her clothing designs, including linen, paua shells, feathers and coconut buttons.

The shop was fashioned to look like a Wharenui (meeting house) with exterior side panels and an archway intricately decorated with Maori designs. She worked on her designs at the back of the shop and employed an outworker to screenprint and sew up the garments.

Whenua no longer exists as a retail outlet, and Marr has moved on to other interests but her place in the renaissance of Maori fashion is an important one.

From articles in Mana magazine, Metro and Pacific Way magazine and from conversations between Margaret and Jean Clarkson.

Read more about margaret Marr in the Profiles Section